| It is not uncommon to be out at night in a bar or | | | | mountains. I took a seat near a tree and soaked in |
| restaurant in Chiang Mai and hear the sound of an | | | | the stunning environment. |
| elephant trumpeting. Nonetheless, it hardly seems like | | | | About 30 minutes later, Lek motioned for me to |
| a typical day in the life of an ordinary elephant. | | | | follow her and we headed over to a group of |
| Unfortunately for some, however, it has become just | | | | elephants. There was no conversation. I just stood |
| that. Though the numbers have dramatically | | | | there and watched as she caressed and played with |
| decreased in recent years, a handful of street | | | | a 4-month old baby elephant for more than 30 |
| mahouts still take these jungle creatures out into | | | | minutes. She later told me that this was part of her |
| traffic on a nightly pub crawl begging for food. They | | | | daily routine. |
| walk around with bags of peanuts, mostly in | | | | Unlike typical elephant camps, there is no elephant |
| congested tourist areas; the bags are then sold and | | | | riding at Elephant Nature Park nor are there any |
| the peanuts fed to the elephants. Many people also | | | | organized performances. However, there is definitely |
| make some monetary contribution in order to have a | | | | no shortage of entertainment simply observing their |
| photo taken next to them while tipping back a | | | | behavior which is often quite playful during their daily |
| cocktail. You must admit it's a bit of a novelty and | | | | river time. Guests at the park are encouraged to |
| hardly something most westerners experience in their | | | | participate in bathing the creatures while respecting |
| home towns. | | | | certain guidelines for safety. |
| Elephants have long been an integral part of Thai | | | | All of the elephants Lek has purchased in her rescue |
| society and culture for hundreds of years. They | | | | efforts suffered some sort of physical or mental |
| were often used in battles as transportation for | | | | abuse. Outside the restaurant, on the wall, photos |
| Kings and other royal army officers. At one time, the | | | | are displayed with a brief biography of each one. The |
| population of elephants in Thailand was around | | | | camp is funded through private donations including |
| 100,000 as opposed to around 4,000 today. | | | | fees paid by the volunteers. |
| Elephants were often captured and used for logging | | | | In the afternoon, once she had time to break from |
| and then, after its ban in the late 1980's, many | | | | her daily elephant activities, Lek and I sat up in a tree |
| entered into the tourism industry performing in | | | | and she told me more about the mahouts. Her goal is |
| various shows, trekking camps, along with street | | | | definitely to get the elephants off of the street yet |
| begging, and often mistreated. | | | | she is sympathetic to their trainers as well. She feels |
| One person who has tried rather successfully to put | | | | they must be given a viable alternative that still |
| an end to elephant abuse and return them to a more | | | | allows them earn a living. All of the mahouts at her |
| natural environment is a woman by the name of | | | | camp are provided with housing, meals, and a |
| "Lek". It is hard to imagine at first glance that her | | | | monthly salary. She helps obtain legal documents for |
| petite frame is capable of encapsulating her larger | | | | those who arrive undocumented. Her tone lacked |
| than life spirit. | | | | judgment of the mahouts but rather a greater need |
| I first read about Lek when I was researching | | | | for education and understanding. Speaking in a soft |
| elephant trekking and camps for a friend's website. I | | | | yet determined voice, she expressed a desire for her |
| hadn't given much thought to the ethical | | | | fellow countryman to take more interest in the plight |
| considerations of the various tourist packages until I | | | | of these endangered creatures. |
| ran across an article describing this woman, who had | | | | Meanwhile, elephants grazed freely in the surrounding |
| been named by Time magazine as "2005 Asian Hero | | | | pastures with their mahouts squatted quietly nearby, |
| of the Year". The more I read about her work with | | | | some alone and others in small groups. Occasionally, |
| elephants and the Elephant Nature Park she set up | | | | during our conversation, Lek turned to look at them |
| not far from Chiang Mai town, I could not help but | | | | briefly, as a mother might while watching her children |
| feel persuaded to forgo recommending any other | | | | playing in a park. The bond between Lek and her |
| places in the Kingdom. | | | | staff is as obvious as it is with the elephants. There |
| There is plenty of information for those interested in | | | | is a mutual respect that lingers in the air and exudes |
| riding elephants and every tourist office has stacks | | | | a common love they each feel for the sanctuary |
| of brochures to choose from. I, on the other hand, | | | | they now call home. |
| set out to learn more about her alternative. I drove | | | | Volunteers may enroll in a program, staying at the |
| out of town one morning early for about an hour and | | | | park overnight or up to four weeks and take part in |
| made my way to the entrance of Elephant Nature | | | | daily life with the mammals including bathing them and |
| Park. She had been expecting me and, when we | | | | working alongside the mahouts. In order to alleviate |
| arrived, a woman standing near the outside kitchen | | | | stress on the elephants and maintain a safe |
| waved and motioned me to come over. It was Lek | | | | environment, only small numbers of tourists may |
| and she was busy helping to prepare one of the daily | | | | inhabit the park each day. |
| meals for more than 60 fulltime staff and several | | | | Future plans include purchasing more land enabling |
| volunteers. | | | | more elephants and trainers to become part of this |
| Upstairs, day visitors and guides were gathered, | | | | conservation project. Elephant Nature Park offers a |
| drinking complimentary coffee and tea in a large | | | | unique alternative for street mahouts as well as |
| Thai-style wooden building. The grounds, though well | | | | tourists. They do not allow unscheduled visits but |
| managed, maintain the natural beauty of a jungle | | | | there is a separate office in Chiang Mai town with |
| retreat with plenty of open space surrounded by | | | | detailed information about arranging visits. |
